Have Lens, Will Travel

a last look at the detail on the dome at Chor Bakr

Chor Minor

"Chor Minor" means "four minarets," and its obvious why this building is so named. It's actually quite recent- built by a wealthy Turkmen in 1807 to serve as part of a Madrassah complex (the Madrassah has since dissapeared).

What is interesting about it is its unique design. The Mosques and Madrassahs of Transoxania are often accused (with some justice) of being on a grand scale, but very much repetitive. The monumental architectural tradition of Central Asia was quite conservative, particularly during the 19th century when this structure was built.

The Chor Minor is actually the most radical architectural design of that period in Uzbekistan, and it is quite beautiful. The madrassah was destroyed by an earthquake in 1860, and the gatehouse suffered extensive damage (one of the four towers collapsed). The Soviets did some good restoration work in 1968, but the gracelessly stamped the date of the reconstruction on one of the domes (look at the center dome for the numbers "1968.") In historical preservation, as in all other things, the Soviet presence was both beneficial and destructive.

As this was one of my favorite buildings in Bukhara, I'll throw in an egregious amount of photos:

While walking back to our hotel from the Chor Minor (located to the South of the Lyub-i-Hauz) we heard the odd and atonal blaring of strange trumpets in a nearby alley. We emerged onto a street choked with a traditional wedding procession.

Drummers and trumpeters were escorting the groom to the house of the bride to be. In a strange holdover from Zorastrian days, the pair then circle a fire three times (this is not a typical muslim custom) before they are joined together.

As the trumpeters advance through the neighborhood, the following crownd gets biger and bigger. This sort of reminds me of the procession in the Portuguese village were I was married (minus the trumpets), the whole neighborhood turns out to gawk at the spectacle.

The horns didn't seem to have any sort of controls on them, so I am not sure how they carried a "tune," but they mostly did.

So that is pretty much it for our sojourn in Bukhara. That afternoon we arranged tickets on the "Sharq" fast train between Bukhara and Samarqand (about $8 per person, 4 1/2 hours).

The train left at 6 AM, and as we were sitting in the train station it began to snow. The desert can be quite cold during the winter months. The train left well before sunrise, so we witnessed that during our traversal of the desert.

The Snow had not followed us to Samarqand, yet.

Samarqand

the first thing we did after stashin our bags at the hotel was to head down to what many consider Samarqand's second greatest sight- the Shah-i-Zindah (Tomb of the Living King).

Shah-i-Zindah with snow covered mountains

It is believed that Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the prophet who brought Islam to the area, is buried here. Thus the desire for both the powerful and the commoners of today to be buried near here, that they might stand with him when resurrected upon the day of judgement.

Timur, who ruled a vast portion of the muslim world from Samarqand, is not buried here. But much of his family is.

At the entrance they will ding you for another $5-8 per couple, extra if you want to take photos. This whole thing was really irritating. It's not so much the fact that you have to pay, and I would hesitate to say that the state has commercialized the place (hard to do when you get so few tourists) but it certainly isn't for lack of trying.

the main "lane" in the tomb complex

However, a tip from a Anglo-New Zealand couple; if you enter the graveyard at the top of the hill, you can come into the mausoleum complex from the back and thus avoid paying. As you will have to shell out for every other damn thing, you might want to try this. Also, the graves on the top of the hill are quite interesting.

I've got to clone out that branch!

The couple were great folks and, I was pleasently surprised to discover, smugmuggers. (we are everywhere, resistance is futile) This is their website.

The tomb complex is covered in magnificent blue tile, and each of the interiors are somewhat different, although some are in better repair than others. Bring your tripod (I, foolishly, didn't).

Kufic inscriptions above complex gate

Just south of the Ark is the very nice Bolo Hauz mosque, with a fetid pool, as well as a lovely Chaikana where, after surviving the rickety tower, one can calm one's nerves with a cup of green tea.

A dressed up couple heading for the Chaikana

Samanid Mausoleum

Another structure to survive the Mongol assualt of 1220 is the Samanid Mausoleum, which dates from the 10th century (it was partially buried, which spared it from mognol notice). Before it was "dug out" by the soviets, it windows were in a sort of well, and people would whisper questions to an imam hidden inside, who would then hand out written answers on the other side.

Samanid Mausoleum and pool

There is a lovely park near the mausoleum, where one can occasionally see grazing sheep.

Also, about 15 minutes walk to the west, one will find the "Chasma Ayub" (spring of Job) where, according to legend, the prophet struck the earth with a rock and brought forth fresh water.

Ladies outside the Chasma Ayub

The next morning we made arrangements with a local guide to take us to a number of sites outside of Bukhara.

I woke up a few hours before we were to meet Ilker (he's an English speaking guide who hangs around the ark) and Fahreddin, from the Hotel, asked me if I would like to go get some bread with him (it was quite early in the morning). I agreed to do so, and we walked out into the pre-dawn darkness of Bukhara's winding streets.

After about 10 minutes we arrived at a small bakery, led which announced itself not with a sign, but with a mouth watering aroma of freshly baking non.

ISO 3200 on a kit lens, take that, Nikonians!

They basically mold out the non into a disc and slap it up into the inside of a beehive shaped oven, where it sticks until it is done. Then you collect your fresh hot bread!

Chor Bakr

Ilker is available for $20 per half day, which inludes car and gas, as well as tour guiding in very good english.

the first place that he took us was Chor Bakr, a 16th century mausoleum complex built for an important Bukharan sufi family, the Jubayris.

Chor Bakr Courtyard

the Chor Bakr is currently being restored

Minaret reflection

The sky was incredibly blue that day. Great light for photographs.

Chor Bakr dome

Nakshibandi Mausoleum

Entrance to the Nakshbandi Complex

Baha-ud-Din Naqshband Bukhari (1318-1389), founder of one of Sufism's most influential and largest orders. This is probably the most important religious structures in present day Uzbekistan, as Sufism is very influential there and this is the home "turf" of the Imam of Bukhara, who is technically second to the imam of Tashkent (in the eyes of the government), but Tashkent is an upstart, whereas Bukhara is an ancient city long renowned for religious learning. The imam of Bukhara can be seen on the grounds fequently.

the imam of Bukhara (in the white turban)

Nakshbandi Minaret

This is an important place of pilgremage for muslims all over the world, particularly Sufis. Imbedded in the mausoleum of Nakshbandi is a piece of the black stone of the Ka'baa of Mecca.

The Black Stone

The Nakshbandi call this place, "the second Mecca", but I think that may be a bit of hype. I'm not sure.

praying at the tomb of the Sufi Master

fountain next to mausoleum. According to our guide, the Emir of Bukhara had this filled with sweetoned lemon drink (basically lemonade) which worhsippers exiting the mosque could drink.

Detail of roof on "Iwan" (outdoor section of mosque for summer praying)

The Palace of Alim Khan

A few miles down the road from the Nakshbandi complex is the palace of the unlucky Alim Khan, last Emir of Bukahra. By the time he took over Bukhara was run under a protectorate system, and was about as independent as the princely states of India under the British Raj. Nevertheless, until chased off by the Soviets, whereupon he fled south to Afghanistan literally dropping off, one by one, his favorite dancing boys in order to slow his pursuers (he did, after all, retain some of Nasrullah's tastes.) But, Czarist pawn or not, the man knew how to live well. So we visited his palace.

entrance to the Summer Palace, Alil Khan's "Versailles"

Ilker, our guide

Courtyard and Iwan

Maintenance being done on the dining room

museum worker

parlour

game room

detail of gold painted wall panelling

Uzbek cradle on display in the folk art museum that is currently housed in the palace

detail of door latch

colored glass window

Exterior pool of Alim Khan's Palace

Alim Khan's harem had 40 women in it so one can imagine (particularly when one takes into consideration the ever present dancing boys) that he did not chafe much under the czars thumb. His harem often bathed unclothed in the Khan's pool, and when he had taken his fancy to one of them, he would toss her an apple. Alim Khan fled Bukhara in 1920 after the establishment of the Bukharan People's Republic, and died in Kabul in 1944.